Introduction
Twenty years have passed since
John Kimantas undertook the Wild Coast project to survey the coast of British
Columbia, record landing and camping sites, and publish the results in three
volumes.
Think about this for a minute.
Our coast measures between 27,000
and 29,000 kilometres of mostly rugged shoreline, almost all of it empty of
human occupation. Prior to John’s books, scant information existed for paddlers.
There was no google satellite and, in some places, marine charts based upon
dated information didn’t always match the GPS coordinates. John’s effort opened
the world’s best sea kayaking area to countless paddlers. His research went on
to form the basis of the Marine Trail database, and his map products have
guided many a grateful adventurer.
Quite reasonably, given the size
of the project and the remoteness of the area, John’s guides omitted most of
the outer central coast. A few years after the last of the Wild Coast volumes
appeared, some folks from Nanaimo decided to fill in that gap. Starting in 2011,
the west coast of Banks Island was surveyed. Then following in 2012 and 2013,
the west coasts of Aristazabal, Price, Calvert islands, and about 10 nautical
miles (nm) proximate to Cape Caution. The results of these surveys were
published online in three guides and made available on the self-publishing site
issuu.com. The guides did not overlap the wild coast volumes for several
reasons, including the fact that John advertised their existence and for
several years hosted them on his website.
But time moves on. Issuu.com
changed their policy first to deny downloading and recently to remove the
guides entirely from their site. John’s books are no longer easily available to
purchase.
Many more years of experience
have been added to the territory. If the information we found is to be kept available,
suffice it to say that I am much closer to the end of my paddling career than
the beginning. The time has come to update and refurbish those original kayaking
guides.
What follows strives to be more
of a field guide and less the results of a field survey. We have added many
more paddling notes and included less geography. The three original guides have
been compressed into one narrative. The territorial scope has widened in places
to include territory that John Kimantas covered. The new guide adds information
gleaned from 15 more years of central coast paddling.
During the Banks Island survey a
hot political issue was a proposal to build an oil terminal at Kitimat. That
went away, maybe, and development of new relations with the First Nations means
the whole territory is probably in much safer hands. Another goal of the
surveys was to have people in kayaks in the territory learn about it and, if
need be, advocate for it. I think that has happened.
When John conducted his research
and wrote his guides the outer islands south of Prince Rupert had a fearsome
reputation for being inhospitable, devoid of decent campsites and prone to long
stretches of difficult sea states. He cites these views as reasons to not
paddle in these areas excepting those with exceptional paddling skills. The
water classification systems for British Columbia categorize all the areas we
surveyed as class four. That includes exposed rugged coast, strong turbulent
currents, large swells and very difficult landings.
It turns out the outer coast is generally quite rugged, but the rest is possible. In the end all there was to fear was fear itself. With some basic skills in predicting sea state, good planning, a prudent risk-avoiding approach and patience, the risks are all within the abilities of those with ordinary paddling techniques.
Who should paddle in the area covered
by this field guide?
Paddling out is optional, paddling home is not
Those with little interest in
risk assessment, risk avoidance and risk management probably should paddle in
places where someone will come help them when their situation goes awry. This
is not that place. While the risks of the guide area are not generally more
than many other places on the west coast, it is remote. If a problem arises the
solution will be to get to shore safely and call for help which might take a
while to arrive. Often there will not be a power craft in the area to help out,
and the coast guard resources are limited and spread over a very large area.
For those with risk assessment experience,
and making choices based on that assessment, it is prudent to act in a more
risk adverse manner because of the isolation. Dial back your comfort zone (those
sea states and conditions where a paddler feels confident in their ability to
avoid unwanted events). Be more rigorous with keeping yourself out of precarious
situations.
For those wanting to avoid risk
that exceeds their comfort zone, and willing to spend some time in preparation
and follow that up with a prudent and patient approach, ordinary ocean hard
paddling skills are sufficient.
The guide area falls into the
classification (like most of the coast) where paddling is not necessarily dangerous,
but it is not a place for dangerous paddlers.
The guide is structured around
camping beaches, but the goal is to provide enough information to enable paddlers
to get from one place to the next within their comfort zone. This involves not
only the ability to determine the timing of likely wind speed and direction but
also the skill and disposition to add in the effects of ocean currents, and
topography to predict sea state. This is called seamanship and it brings together
the sky, the land and the sea.
For those not wanting to make the
effort to keep safe in this way, this is probably not the place for you. In my
view, no amount of hard paddling skills will keep paddlers safe if they ignore
the soft skills and risk avoidance.
Access and Communication
BC Ferries offers access to Bella
Bella and Klemtu; the schedules are on their website.
The launch at Bella Bella is
beside the terminal to the south. It has a good beach at the top with easy
launching down to about half tides and reasonable launching below that.
In Klemtu, the launch at the
ferry terminal is under the loading ramp. It is coarse rip-rap and not a very
pleasant experience, but it is in a good place. Leave extra time to safely
avoid injuring yourself in the launch process. This launch is most easily done
on a flooding tide which also has the benefit of providing push from the
terminal up to Split Head. Be careful about waves from boat wakes as the shape
of the beach at the terminal seems to magnify their effect when they reach the
shore.
The currents between the Klemtu
terminal and Split Head are very strong along the more northerly section and
paddling against that current might not be an option for most paddlers.
A humpback whale who had a calf a
couple of years ago lives in the channel facing Boat Bluff. It has been there
for about 15 years. Seeing it is a pleasant experience to start or end your
trip.
It is possible to launch directly
from Port Hardy. The BC Marine trail established a launch site at the boat ramp
a few hundred metres from the ferry terminal.
For those paddling from Prince
Rupert, it is possible to launch from the wharf near the ferry terminal. My
preference, when coming off the ferry is to arrange for pick up of kayak and
gear and get accommodation for the night. Then starting the next afternoon from
Port Edward with a short paddle to Kitson Island.
I like to leave Kitson Island
when there is a high tide at about 3 am. There is a reason behind this.
In my mind, the most interesting
route to the north end of Banks Island goes via Edye Passage. By starting from
Kitson very early in the morning the ebb tide and effect of the river will
provide substantial push to the southwest and it is not difficult to get to the
northwest corner of Porcher Island. From there another early start, launching
near to high tide with help from a morning ebb will get a person to Goschen
fairly easily. Then the same routine the next day will achieve Banks Island
either along the north shore or at the first campsite going south on the west
side. If you paddle this way, take into account the ebb tide running out of
Beaver Passage which will provide push from east to west, whether you want it
or not.
The effect of this timing means a
trip down the outside of Banks with high tides in the morning and the benefit
of good ebbs. The advantage of being with the current on the outside of Banks
means travelling at roughly twice the speed over ground. This is an important
factor when making your daily assessment of likely sea state. Landing along
Banks later in the morning at lower tides can be more challenging but I find it
much easier to deal with a long beach when arriving rather when launching. If
you are lazy like I am, take a long piece of rope and let the tide bring the
boat in. There is a caveat to planning for ebbs in the morning on the west side
of Banks Island. With south wind or wind waves, the effect of current against
waves will result in a very difficult sea state.
Cell service is available near to Bella Bella, Klemtu, Hartley Bay and Kitkatla
but not otherwise. VHF radios work well in most of the guide area but service
can be spotty on the west side of Banks with access to the repeater on Haida
Gwaii. Even if a person has trouble receiving radio transmissions, coast guard
radio should be able to hear a call for assistance. In recent years satellite communicators
have become more common and they will work to call for help or otherwise access
the outside world. The best way to get help is probably to call the Rescue
Coordination Centre.
Geology and geography
The route along the outer coast
from the northern tip of Banks Island to Burnett Bay south of Cape Caution
stretches approximately 200 NM. This guide focuses mainly on the area north of
the south end of Price Island and south of the north end of Calvert Island.
Queens sound is well looked after by other sources.
Throughout this area there are
two dominant factors which are central to the kayaking experience. The first is
low elevation along the outer coast. The second is the existence of Haida
Gwaii.
The area north of Seaforth
Channel along the outer coast forms part of a geological formation called the
Milbanke Strandflat. It encompasses the west side of Banks Island, most of the
Estevan Group, the west side of Aristazabal, the west side of Price Island and
extends further south to the Bardswell Group and Queens sound.
Major shaping forces were marine
and glacial erosions. There are no high walled inlets; the low elevation
mountains are along the east side of the major islands and the glacial erosion has
left thin soils with vegetation not suitable for commercial logging. The place
looks like it would have before European contact. West of the main islands the
flat terrain continues. Between Day Point on the south end of Price Island and
Deadman Point on the north end of Banks Island there are more than 1000 islands
or islets within a few miles of shore and many more rocks and reefs.
Islands and islets have a lee
side as do rocks and reefs. As the guide goes through the terrain it will become
clear that this makes for many areas that have little exposure to open ocean.
Further South along Calvert and around Cape Caution the land remains flat near
the shore but there are fewer protected places.
In the northern section,
the other major influence is Haida Gwaii separated by the relatively shallow Hecate
Strait from the mainland islands. Hecate Strait is 100 NM wide at the south end
and about 30 NM wide at the north end. When water is pushed through a funnel like
this (tides flood up the coast), it stacks up and speeds up.
An illustrative example of this
effect is the difference between tide levels at the east and west ends of Skidegate
Channel that separates the two larger islands of Haida Gwaii. A 3.5 metre tide
at the west side will mean an almost 7 metre tide on the east side. The effect
on the outer coast of mainland BC is similar with tide ranges in the 7 metres
range from Prince Rupert south diminishing to 4 metres or so south of Queens
Sound. Large tide changes mean stronger tidal currents and more challenges
finding good spots to land and launch.
Haida Gwaii also stops the
offshore swell. Moving South along the outer islands north of Banks Island, the
offshore swell diminishes and disappears once clear of the north shore of
Banks. It appears again around Clifford Bay on Aristazabal Island but the
protective effect of the offshore islands and reefs and inshore protection
means that both Aristazabal and Price islands are free from offshore swell except
for a few short sections. No open surf beaches exist in this part of the guide
area. This is not to say that sea states are necessarily calm in Hecate Strait.
The area is shallow and wind waves not only cause difficult paddling conditions
but they seem to persist after the wind calms. Some examples of this will be
part of the detailed territorial narrative. Shallow water and strong currents
around Cape Caution creates its own set of issues.
Tides and Currents.
Two names for the same phenomenon.
Tidal flows move up the coast from the SW and ebb back down more or less the
same way. Maximum current values for places like Otter passage, south of Banks Island
and Beaver passage just to the north of it, suggest flow strength in both
directions is similar.
This guide deals with the outer
coast and that makes matters fairly straight forward. Current strength and
water levels will increase as one moves north but the timing of these events
will tend to follow the predictability of the open ocean. The guide deals with
local effects and values for the outer coast on a district by district basis.
Circumstances change once away
from the open water of Queen Charlotte Sound and Hecate Strait. And the further
one gets from open water the more current directions and timing vary from a
linear model. The convoluted nature of our coastal inlets means that, while all
the water pushes north and then back south, the routes that it follows and the
timing of that movement are anything but obvious.
For inland channels, DFO provides
current information as part of sailing directions. Local influences are more
common than a general picture. Our good fortune is to be on the outside and
that means when the tide is coming in the current floods north and when it is
going out it goes south. Further south, the deep inlets affect the timing but
the regularity of the pattern remains.
South of Aristazabal Island tidal
currents are less influential than further north, except around Cape Caution.
As one moves north, current rates of 1-2 knots will have a large impact on
progress and time estimates.
After a few days, I forget about
tide heights. They are regular and are either a bit higher or a bit lower than
the day before. Timing is more important.
Be aware that weather can have a
significant effect on tide heights. When we were doing the Banks survey, we
were camped on Kirkendale Island at the entrance to Kingkown Inlet; a very
protected site, and we needed it as a strong low pressure with strong southerly
winds was arriving in the night. We had camped in this place the previous night
so we knew what the high tide level should be. As the storm passed over us,
through the combination of low pressure and near gales pushing water into the inlet,
it raised the high tide by over 30 centimetres above what we expected. If not
anticipated, this can be an unhappy situation when camped on the beach. More on
this point appears in the section on Banks Island.
Weather
When sitting about camp listening
to the weather report in the evening, we tend to think in terms of wind and
maybe rain and visibility. But, while important, it is not really what we need
to know. The question should be “what the sea state will be where we are
paddling? and how will it likely change or develop as the day goes along?”
If you paddle west out of Hakai
Pass going south on a nice clear day with little wind but on a big ebb with
incoming SW swell, within minutes of clearing the Surf Islands you will
desperately wish you were somewhere else. If it is windy, it will become worse.
You will be in very rough water where swell meets current and you will likely
not be able to retreat. There will be a few other examples of this sort of
situation throughout the guide.
While we tend to focus on poorer
weather, keep in mind that most of the time in July and August the weather is
fair. Afternoon northwesterlies are far more common than low pressure systems.
Predicting sea state is more complicated than just timing the wind but it is
not hard to get it close to right most of the time. What is required is: the
basket of skills called seamanship.
Fortunately, the factors, other
than wind and visibility that go into sea state can be sorted out in advance
with good preparation. Currents, the likely effects of land form, and depth are
all easily determined before leaving home. It is hard to be perfect but not so
hard to be right enough that dangerous or overly stressful situations can be
avoided.
In the field, the main chore is
predicting the wind where you are at over the period of time before there is a
safe, achievable place to get off the water. My experience is that the Environment
Canada weather forecast is close to correct for at least 24 hours. As one moves
further out the timing becomes less reliable and more than a few days in
advance the energy predicted in systems might be off. While the forecast
applies to weather reporting areas there are seldom times that the weather is
uniform across the whole district.
The Hecate Strait district is
about 140 nm from north to south and up to about 100 nm east to west at its widest.
McInnes Island to Pine Island is 90 nm North to South and 50 or so nm east to
west. The skill required is to predict the developing wind and visibility where
you will be at when you want to be paddling; fortunately, it is not that hard.
Low pressure systems bring SE
winds which generally move toward the east at about 20 knots. The forecast
gives you strong clues about this if you are aware of where the various
reporting stations and weather districts are located and how far away they are.
There is a lot of information available to help. A row of buoys offshore,
North, Middle and South Nomad will record anything coming from the west well
before arrival. Another row, West Dixon, West Moreseby, South Moresby and East
Delwood are closer to landfall but still many hours away from the guide area.
Further in are Central Dixon, North Hecate, South Hecate and West Sea Otter,
which are mostly about 30 nm from shore; these buoys are updated each hour and
at that time the information is close to real time.
There are also many land stations
west of the guide area. Rose Spit, Cumshewa Inlet, Sandspit Airport, Bonilla
Island, Cape St James and Sartine Island. These are also updated hourly and the
updates are close to real time. There are also several manned lighthouse
stations in the area which report only every three or four hours and so, are
less helpful for timing the weather.
So, listening to the forecast and
accepting that as what will happen where you are at is not very helpful. The
wind values will likely happen somewhere in the district but not everywhere and
not always at the same time. What works is to listen several times per day and
figure out what is happening over the coast and then use the stations nearest
you to determine what is developing where you are at.
An example could be if you were
near the north end of Aristazabal Island and the forecast for Hecate Strait
south was increasing SE wind rising during the morning. That wind would show up
first on the mainland of Haida Gwaii and take 2 or 3 hours to move across
Hecate Strait. When the wind started to rise at the South Hecate Buoy you would
have about an hour or so before it would affect the coast. The north end of
Aristazabal is north of the South Hecate Buoy and south of the North Hecate Buoy.
So, balancing the two reported values will guide you toward a good estimate.
To make these sorts of timing
predictions it is necessary to know where the various reporting stations are
and approximately how far away they are from you. At first, to do this
successfully, some pre-trip homework is required. If you use a GPS enter the
locations of the various stations and your device will tell you how far away
and in what direction they are. A chart showing the locations of the various
reporting stations is appended.
Once you have sorted out how the
wind is going to change during the day you can then apply that to the predicted
tidal currents and topographical influences to predict sea state. Weather is a
very dynamic system; picking safe windows is a fundamental skill for paddlers
in the guide area.
The issue of afternoon northwesterly winds caused by land heating will be dealt with on a more local level. Paddlers will spend more days avoiding the worst of this effect than southerly winds associated with low pressure systems.
Fauna
While post contact resource usage
has had a substantial impact on the whole area, the trend is toward a more
environmentally aware approach to human usage. In the area covered by this
guide there is almost no human occupation. Nature can be resilient and
throughout the area, creatures in the sky, on the land and in the sea are
abundant.
Keep in mind that while we might
find observing animals to be awe inspiring or breathtaking, they could not care
less about what we think. The things that live here are going about their
business in the way that they have done for a very long time and we should be
careful not to interfere with their behaviors.
Birds
Throughout the area you can see
the usual collection of sea birds, raptors and migratory species. For those visiting
Wilby Point in Kitasoo Bay, they will likely meet a local raven who struts
around like it owns the place…maybe it does.
In many areas in the summer,
sandhill cranes are raising their young and preparing for the trip south. These
large birds have a distinctive call. They can be found in areas where there are
mud flats including the west sides of Aristazabal Island and Banks Island and
around the north end of Price Island.
Often, they are not used to people so if you don’t disturb them, they will tend to ignore you. The opportunity to observe and interact with various bird species on a daily basis exists throughout the area. Enjoy.
Marine Mammals
Humpback whales, orcas, seals,
dolphins, porpoises, sea lions, river otters and sea otters are common throughout
the area. I have usually seen orcas in Milbanke Sound and Seaforth Channel. The
sea otters that apparently migrated from the west coast of Vancouver Island to
Queen’s Sound many years ago have spread themselves across the area. There may
be rules about being close to whales. My observations are that they go about
their business and it really doesn’t matter much what you do in a kayak.
Sometimes they will come close and sometimes not. I do think they are aware of
a kayak’s presence.
Several years ago, while paddling
on a calm day near Langara Island I and the person beside me, noticed that the
water was bulging under my boat. This effect, sometimes called a footprint, happens
just before a large whale surfaces. Both my paddling partner and I knew what
was happening, but the water subsided and the whale did not surface under my
boat.
Terrestrial Mammals
The area has the usual assortment
of coastal fur-bearing animals. By far the dominant species on the outer coast
is wolves. They are everywhere. You will see them, when they want, on the
beaches. They will come around at night to check you out. And sometimes they
will just look at you. I have never had trouble with wolves being aggressive.
However, in the last two or three years the family of wolves on the west side of Campania Island has become aggressive, apparently seeking human food. The likely reason for this new behaviour is humans are feeding them either intentionally or inadvertently. Were these wolves near to people, the result would be their destruction. Campania Island is remote so nothing will likely be done. Be aware should you want to go to this place. And please don’t create this problem in other locations.
In the northern section of the guide,
I have only seen a black bear on two occasions. Both times on the west side of
Price Island. Wolves are said to eat black bears so this may explain the rarity
of sightings.
Brown bears, grizzlies, have been
turning up in the area around Higgins Passage and Kitasoo Bay in recent years.
Apparently young males leave the more inland locations to avoid large males. It
may be that banning hunting of these creatures inland has resulted in more of
them surviving and needing to expand their territory.
I am aware of one group who were
confronted by a determined and persistent young brown bear at Monk Bay. They
decided to go to a different campsite. In the area proximate to Cape Caution on
the BC mainland, wolves, brown bears and black bears seem to somehow co-exist
in larger numbers.
I have never seen a cougar or
cougar tracks on the outer coast.
Mice and mink are everywhere.
Fish
I think of fish differently from
other animals, mainly because I like to eat them and they form part of my meals
up to half of the time.
Various types of bottom-living rockfish
exist throughout the area. Lingcod are common. Midwater species like black
rockfish, sometimes called sea bass, are also common. Ling cod and black
rockfish are easiest to catch on points that are exposed to the open ocean.
This often means a bumpy ride in the echo off of the rocks, but I find it worthwhile.
There are areas restricted from any fishing called rockfish conservation areas. This includes part of Calamity Bay, part of Kitasoo Bay, portions along the west side and Calvert island, the northern entrance to Smith Sound and other areas. Sort it out before you go where fishing is not allowed. The guide will point out some areas where I have had success catching dinner.
Coho salmon are often quite
common in the summer. Beaches that include a sand ramp down to below low tide
are often good places to spin cast at higher tides. Trolling or using buzz
bombs is also effective.
The entire area is closed
permanently to harvesting most bivalves. The risk is PSP poisoning. The closures
are permanent not because the problem always exists but because no testing is
done. If you decide to eat clams just be careful. Locals might have a small
taste and wait to see if anything happens before eating these creatures.
Remember you are isolated and getting PSP might have a poor outcome.
Any fishing requires a license
and compliance with a lot of regulations. For those planning to fish, some
preparation and research at home before setting out is a good idea.
Anecdotally, fishing is changing, particularly for species other than salmon.
In recent years it just seems to take a bit longer to catch something. This may
be related to the increase in surface water temperatures and the reaction of
various species to this change. This is probably not a good thing.
First Nations
On Calvert Island, footprints
made 13,200 years ago were once said to be the oldest in North America. Village
sites on Triquet Island and Gander Island, consistent with origin stories of
people still living in the central coast, date back 14,000 and 11,000 years old
respectively. The historical story remains incomplete. What is clear is that
people have been living in this area for a very long time and the First Nations
people that live here today trace their lineage back to those early times. In
this guide, area villages are located at Kitkatla, Hartley Bay, Klemtu, Bella
Bella and Rivers Inlet. Those with time to stop and visit will likely benefit,
if they so choose, from the experience.
Prior to the arrival of Europeans,
we can fairly assume that everywhere along the coast was occupied and that a
long history of local relationships had resulted in a stable and sustainable
culture. European contact changed that through the mechanism of new diseases
and intentional policy of the newcomers. The effect was dramatic for the First
Nations but they have persisted and remain determined to have some control over
their traditional territories and maintain the valuable lessons from their
cultural history.
Canadian governments accept that
First Nations have the right to these aspirations. What is not resolved and may
not be resolved any time soon, is the form and substance this new relationship
will take. In the interim, we are all here, both the original peoples and those
who have come from away, and none of us is going anywhere. And despite strong
emotions, we are all people and more alike than different.
What is also clear is that
regardless of the political arrangements, going forward, the place needs to be looked
after to preserve its history, its present value and its future. In recent
years collaboration between First Nations and governments works toward
incorporating the knowledge of First Nations people into policies to preserve
the environment for the benefit of those here now, and those who will be here
in the future.
As this is being written an
agreement to protect an area near Banks Island was announced. It will be a
refuge for several species of marine life that are under threat. Climate change
will require even more collaboration and wisdom going forward. Commercial and industrial
development needs to respect local values and environmental risks.
Paddlers who use this guide need
to be aware that every beach they stop on was, at an earlier time, the home of
an ancestor of someone who lives in this area today. This does not need to mean
not being in the area, but it does mean that evidence of historical usage must
be left untouched. First nations people understand that we are all part of
nature. This is neither good nor bad, but our behavioural choices can be both
good and bad. Keep this in mind as you visit. Take it upon yourself to be an
advocate for preserving and keeping this wonderful place.
A thought about paddling on the outer coast
Paddlers choose challenging and remote areas for many reasons. Some want to
test their planning and paddling skills. Some come for the scenery, the
wildlife and the photos that they provide. Some come to share their experience
with friends. Some come just to be in the area and absorb it. I have tried them
all over the years, moving toward the later choice as time works its changes. I
have learned what is most important is not your motivation but your attitude. I
think the best guide to bringing an appropriate attitude can be learned from
the First Nations. Understand that you are part of nature and respect all of
it. Ensure that your passage is always sustainable. Take responsibility for
stewardship both locally and more broadly with the environment.
Kayak Bill
Throughout this guide the name Kayak Bill is mentioned several times. We would be remiss to not provide some context as to this man's place on the coast and his effect on coastal history from the mid-'70's to current day. Born in 1947, William Lawrence "Billy" Davidson came to the coast from Alberta around 1975. Fiercely independent and with a need to record his journeys through art he began traveling the coastline by kayak while living off the land and sea. During his trips he established 30-some wilderness camps, roughly a day's paddle apart stretching from the Broughtons as far north as Hecate Strait. When not at one of his camps he painted what he had seen and sold the art to bank roll his next excursion. He carefully documented his 28 years on the coast in journals and charts. If you travel on the Edge of the Great Bear route you will pass by or very close to ten of them. He became a coastal legend known as Kayak Bill
While he traveled a coast not known for fair weather and glassy waters he couldn't be described as a skilled technical paddler by today's standards. His time and equipment didn't favor or support technical body, boat, blade expertise so he kept himself safe through judgement, patience and an understanding of weather and seas. It is in that vein that we encourage you to undertake this route.
If you are interested in
learning more about the life and times of Kayak Bill read Brandon Pullan's 2021
book titled "To Be A Warrior ~ The Life and Mysterious Death of Billy
Davidson". The largest online collection of articles about Kayak Bill
as well as photos and descriptions of his camps can be found at 3meterswell.
Area of Exploration
Banks Island
When arriving at the north shore
of Banks Island coming from the north, paddlers will have noticed that the
offshore swell has pretty much disappeared leaving only the waves generated in
Hecate Strait. Local weather predictions should be adequate for predicting sea
state. Be aware than on an ebb, a lot of water comes out of Beaver Passage
north of McCauley Island, which will cause drift to the west. Beaver Passage
has a maximum speed of 4 knots, and it is a secondary current station for the
purposes of timing.
1. Deadman Inlet
The eastern half of the north
shore of Banks Island has several beaches of fine sand, all of which are quite
flat. This means a very long distance from camp to water when the tide is low.
Plan accordingly. The best of them is the beach near the west entrance to
Deadman Inlet. This site has a couple of small streams that drain the lowlands
to the south.
2. Banks Island North
Approximately l.2 nm west of
Deadman Inlet is a westerly-facing gravel beach with a strong stream. This
beach is considerably steeper than the sand beaches to the east making coming
and going easier. It is our choice for the north shore of Banks. Entry is
possible from the north between the rock at higher tides. There is ample beach
camping above summer high tides.
3. Larsen Island
The channel between Banks Island
and Larsen Island is passable at tides above 4 metres at Griffith Harbour.
There is little to choose between this channel and going around the west end of
Larsen as both routes are well protected from offshore influence. The west-facing
beach on the southwest shore of Larsen Island is a well protected choice with
boulders lower down and sand at the top. Fortunately, a couple of canoe
channels have been cleared which are visible on the google image. There is beach
camping but no reliable water source.
Once south of Larsen Island strong influence from sea states and winds from the northwest diminish substantially.
The easiest way to transit the
west side of Banks Island from north to south is to be there with high tides early
in the morning and use the ebb. Padding against a flood will slow progress
substantially. An important caveat to using the ebbs is that with southeast
wind and waves paddling can become very difficult.
The effect of low-pressure systems with southerly winds in
Hecate Strait
On my first visit to this area in
2011 we camped at the Kirkendale site, planning to take a day off for the
passage of a low pressure system and rain. On our second night at this place
the low passed and the wind blew from the south. The effect was that the high
tide was one foot or thirty centimetres higher than it would have been with
good weather. This site is not exposed directly to the south, so it was fully
protected from the wind. The next time I was in this area, the day after a low
pressure had passed, the energy in the water flowing north caused a very
difficult disorganized sea state once I emerged from the protection of the Sneath
Islands.
This was the effect of ebb
meeting incoming energy on a day that had little wind. The shallow water was probably
part of the issue but the lesson to be learned is that Hecate Strait takes a long
time to settle down after southerly wind has created rough seas. I had
experienced this phenomenon further south when returning to Aristazabal from
the west after a strong low had passed. On that occasion no wind but 6 or 7 nm
of very difficult paddling in heavy chop that seemed to lack structure.
On the first trip we were stopped
by this effect at the site south of Kingkown Inlet on a day after the wind had
calmed and the low pressure had passed. I should have learned from that first
experience when there years later.
The combination of higher tides
caused by the combined effects of southerly winds, low pressure and presumably
shallow water can have a significant effect on the utility of campsites. I have
camped twice at the site east of Kelp Point in good weather and found good
beach camping at quite high tides. Jon Dawkins was there during a low pressure
with modest southerly winds and the beach flooded with a predicted high tide at
Griffith Harbour one foot less than during our visit.
The moral is that the west side of Banks is quite an easy area to paddle in
good weather making good time with the aid of ebbs in the morning. It can also
be a very difficult place to paddle with poor weather and some of the camps
will not be useful. It is probably prudent to have a few extra days to stay on
shore if a low passes and be prepared to wait longer than usual for the sea to
calm.
4. Tombolo
The campsite at the tombolo at the south entrance to an inlet about 1/2 nm north of Solander Point has good beach camping that should survive high tides and most weather conditions. I is a very pleasant and protected spot. This is probably where a person wants to stop with southerly weather imminent or having recently passed. There appears to be a good creek at the head of the inlet if you are short of water.
5. Kirkendale Island
The Sneath Islands protect
several nice-looking sand beaches, some of which are suitable for camping in good
weather.
The campsite on Kirkendale Island
is a well protected mostly gravel beach (some mud at the bottom) that appears
to have First Nation history. There is beach camping on gravel for several
tents and potential for upland camping with some light clearing on what appears
to be midden.
When we were there most recently,
a Saskatoon berry bush was marked as culturally significant. There is a creek
in a small cove about 300 metres to the north which is most easily accessed at
lower tides.
This place has been shown to survive higher tides with southerly wind and low pressure. I had good luck fishing for black rockfish, a favourite of mine, west of the Antle Islands and coho north of Kelp Point.
The site, approximately 1.85 nm
south of the Antle Islands, is in my mind one of the more interesting examples
of First Nations technology along the coast. Entered from the south through a
relatively narrow channel one sees that the southern part of the bay has what
appears to be a man-made structural barrier from one side to the other with a
narrow channel in the middle. The google image attached shows this quite
clearly. A strong creek enters from the east. The area encompassed by the
barrier is about 16 hectares or 40 acres.
Camping is at the top of the bay
on sand in driftwood. When I was there, in decent weather with settling sea
state, adequate tent space above a very high tide was not a problem. Given what
I have learned about the effects of low pressure and southerly wind, it is
quite possible this beach would disappear in those conditions. The possible
conversion of this bay and the inlet immediately to the north into clam gardens
must have provided food for a large number of people. Additionally, this site
would only need a barrier about 10 metres in length across the entry channel which
could be opened and closed to make it a very large fish trap.
7. Kelp Point
The site 1.7 nm east of Kelp
Point is accessed by turning north along 130° 16’ into a funnel- shaped inlet. The camping beach toward
the head of the inlet is a relatively steep sand/grit/gravel that is accessible
at tides above 1.5 metres. Below that level are rocks.
When we stayed there in 2011 we
had a 21’ tide at Griffith Harbour and there was ample room. When Jon Dawkins
stayed there in 2015 they had rain and southerly wind and with a 20’ tide and
the place flooded. The difference was the weather and sea state pushing into
this funnel shaped inlet.
We are wise to focus on being
safe and having fun, but sometimes keeping a smile requires a bit of extra
effort.
Enjoy Jon’s account of his visit to this site.
The predictive trifecta
used for forecasting suffering is fatigue, pain, and anxiety. In my case those elements
were wind against current, heavy rain and a gastrointestinal fairy rumbling in
my gut. Looking forward to what had been described as the best campsite in the
area we entered the tapering bay south of Kelp Point and landed about 1 1⁄2
hours before high slack. There should have been plenty of room yet the water
had already risen to the heavy driftwood logs, something that shouldn't have
happened. We pulled our boats up onto the logs and set up the parawing to
provide some comfort as we warmed, ate and recouped but rain and rising tide
turned the beach into standing water and quicksand as we perched on top of the
logs and watched the ocean take the beach. Since there was no place large
enough to fully set up a tent we crammed our shelters into tiny areas that
would allow half of the footprint to be deployed. The rain continued until
morning. With water running under and, in some cases, inside of our tents we
spent the night marooned in our distorted ripstop envelopes on tiny, inflated
air mattress islands. Nothing could get me back out into that rain until
morning.........other than the Gastrointestinal Fairy who came calling during
the night.
For the full story, visit Jon’s website: The Faces of Type-III Fun
I stayed there a few years ago and found the same roomy conditions as in 2011.
This is the best site in the area with the next good site over 12 nm away in an
inlet. For those coming from the north, weather from the south would make it
extremely difficult to get from Kirkendale Island to the inlet to the south. And
in those conditions stopping at the Kelp Point site might not be a good choice.
Plan accordingly.
The site east of the Wreck
islands would be a choice only in case of necessity, but it does have room for a
couple of tents if there is not a lot of rain. It is noted because there just
aren’t many places along this part of the coast that have a flat spot large
enough to pitch a couple of tents above spring tides.
9. South West Inlet
About halfway between
Grief and Spearer points is a well-protected bay accessed along 53°14.5
north. Going north from the easterly part of this bay is a south facing inlet
that is fed by a large stream. The campsite is a difficult place to land at
lower tides because of the steep and rocky beach. At higher tides the beach is
flatter. There is a kind of boat ramp with what is left of cross logs.
I don’t think this inlet dries but if it did, getting out in the creek would be possible. The site has obvious uses as a camp or house site and stripped cedars suggest a longer term First Nations use.
Camping high on the beach or in the upland with room for many with some light clearing. There is a small creek at the site that provides good water. At high tide it is possible to paddle into a lake but beware as the route becomes a waterfall as the tide ebbs.
10. Terror Point
This site is behind a second
island north of Terror Point and accessed from the east. There is a
sand/clamshell beach on Banks Island which would likely be fine at moderate
tides but perhaps disappears at spring tides. There is no obvious upland
option.
Jon Dawkins reports that he was
able to find room in the upland immediately south of this site that, with some clearing,
might accommodate two tents.
I consider this a secondary site,
but it might be useful for those going north not wanting to deal with a
northwest wind after Terror Point.
In 2012 three fishermen were
stranded at Terror Point after their boat sank. They waited for 9 days before
someone noticed where they were. That says something about the remoteness of
this area and the lack of local traffic. That should be kept in mind when
making decisions.
11. Calamity Bay
The primary site in Calamity Bay
is on a small islet, the most northerly in a group of three, in the northeast
part of the bay. Landing is on a gravel beach facing Banks Island. There are
camping opportunities on the northern end of the islet. There is a strong creek
that enters at the top of the bay to the north of the islet.
The area east of Terror Point
including all of Calamity Bay, is a rockfish conservation where fishing for fin
fish is not permitted.
Banks Island to Rennison Island
In many respects this piece is
the most challenging one covered in this guide. In the last few years the
situation has been made worse by wolves on Campania Island who want into your
food and will not take no for an answer.
There are three routes all of
which have their challenges and all of which will require a longer crossing. My
experience is three transits of Langley passage and one from Banks via Otter
Passage to Campania. There are not many good campsites regardless of the route
chosen and all will require taking into account tides, currents and afternoon
winds.
Calamity Bay to the campsites
immediately south of the Jewsbury Peninsula on Campania via Otter Passage.
This choice is about 17.5 nm
without an obvious choice for a break other than a couple of rough beaches.
And, when you arrive, you may need to deal with persistent wolves. I met people
who abandoned the more northerly sites on Campania because of wolves and went
to the site toward the south end. That will add another five NM on to your day
and might not avoid the wolf issue. Hopefully the situation with the wolves
resolves.
This route first needs to have a
flood tide near the time when you want to start. Otter Passage runs up to 6
knots so starting a couple of hours before the change to ebb is ideal.
Otter Passage current is based upon
Prince Rupert tides and it changes to ebb about one hour forty-five minutes
before high tide at Prince Rupert. Otter Passage is a secondary current station
based upon Prince Rupert so sort out the timing before you leave home. There is
a tide station at the Block Islands in Otter Passage and that reaches high
water about twenty five minutes before high tide at Prince Rupert.
There are two principal weather/sea
state issues with this route. The first is outflow winds in the morning coming
from as far away as Kitimat which may meet the incoming current from Otter
Passage. A good estimate of the outflow wind speed can be gleaned from the
readings at Nanakwa Shoal.
Some of this issue can be avoided
by paddling behind the islands to the north of Trutch Island. The whole problem
can be avoided by waiting for the outflow to ease later in the morning.
The second sea state issue is the
likelihood, in good weather, of strong northwesterly winds developing around mid-day
that will blow down Principe Channel into Estevan Sound and on down into Laredo
Channel. My experience is that these can be very strong and they will be on
your beam crossing over to Campania if you wait too long.
John Kimantas indicates a campsite
on Prior Island near the entrance to Langley Passage. I have stayed there and
don’t recommend it unless necessary.
Calamity Bay to Campania via
Langley Passage
This route to Campania is about
one nautical mile further than via Otter Passage but there may be some advantages.
Langley Passage floods toward the
middle from the three main entrances. The optimal situation is to be about the
middle of Langley Passage at high tide. This would mean a flood in from the
west and then the early part of the ebb on the way out to the east.
Currents at the west entrance are
manageable when they are against you, the east entrance is not so easy. At low
tides the east entrance is shallow and narrow and not manageable for most
paddlers.
An advantage of this route is
that it is possible to stop for a break at the old barracks in Ethelda Bay and
the last time I was there several years ago camping was possible if not
desirable.
The problems with crossing from
the Estevan Group to Campania are the same as with the Otter Passage route. If
you are delayed getting out of Langley Passage there is the risk of strong
afternoon winds in Estevan Sound. Also, once you get to Campania the wolf
problem remains.
12. Hickey Island
There is a variation of the
Langley Passage route that may be easier and that is to exit via the channel that
enters from the south. I haven’t been that way but on satellite images it does
not look overly constricted or shallow.
John Kimantas does not record a
good beach on the Hickey Islands but there appears to be two good options, both
on the largest Hickey Island. Keep in mind that John did not have the benefit
of good satellite images when he did his survey and both options on the Hickey
Islands were probably not visible to him in a kayak.
As John noted, the best place is
a small islet about one nautical mile west of the Hickey Island, but that is an
ecological reserve.
On this variation the distance from Calamity Bay to the Hickey islands is 16.8 NM. Again, it would be best to enter from the west on a flood and exit to the south on an ebb. An advantage of this route is that once into Langley Passage paddling would be in waters that are very protected. From the Hickey Island options, it is approximately 10 NM to the campsite on the north shore of Rennison Island.
13. Oswald Bay - Calamity Bay
to Rennison Island via west side of the Estevan Group.
There is good camping on Barnard
Island in Oswald Bay. It is located in a small pocket about 600 metres NNW of
the entrance to the channel that separates Barnard Island from Dewdney Island.
The large beach closer to the channel dries for a very long distance and might
only be useful if coming and going on a high tide. The site has a gravel beach
and room in the upland for several tents.
The distance from the Calamity
Bay site is about 11 nm. The site was first identified by John Kimantas, and
Jon Dawkins, who is helping with this guide, has been there.
From the Oswald Bay site it is
possible to paddle in the channel to the east that runs north of Dewdney
Island. Kimantas says that a tide of 19.5 feet at Prince Rupert is needed to
get through as the area is very shallow. Using this route, it would be about 14
nm to the campsite on Rennison Island. Going around the west side of Dewdney
Island from Oswald Bay would be about 18 nm and run the risk of mid-day
northwest winds even with an early start.
Crossing to Rennison Island
Regardless of which route is
chosen, at some point, a crossing to Rennison Island is required. From the Hickey
Islands or from the main campsite on Campania it is about 10 nm. The main issue
in this area is strong flood and ebb currents that enter and exit in the large
channel between Rennison Island and Dewdney Island.
The flood runs mainly from
southwest to northeast with some of the water turning up into Estevan sound.
The ebb is the reverse with about the same strength.
During one crossing from Rennison
Island to Campania Island I stopped my boat in the water and the GPS recorded a
drift speed of two knots.
I think the current timing is
fairly close to the tides in this area. It is important to give full
consideration to the effect of these currents, and if possible, plan to use
them. Not doing this will likely result in ending up in the wrong place and
having to paddle against a strong current to recover.
Aristazabal and Price Islands
For me, this area of the outer
coast is, maybe, the easiest place to be in remote and rugged territory, while
at the same time suited to lower risk. It is accessible in two days from the
ferry at Klemtu or three days from the ferry terminal at Bella Bella. On both
routes, difficult sea states can be avoided with some planning and patience.
These days, this area is my choice for a bit of camping, reading, and just
being in the territory.
The original guides for this area
left Laredo Channel and Sound to John Kimantas. This time both the east and
west sides of Aristazabal are included along with some suggestions for avoiding
risk while in the area.
West of Aristazabal Island
starting from Rennison Island in the north down to Conroy Island, about 9 nm
west of the Arriaga Islands in the south, is a line of islands and reefs that
largely stop any wave energy coming from the southwest or west.
Combined with the various islands
that provide lee side paddling, this means that there is only about 1.5 nm of
exposure to the open ocean toward the south end of the island, and another 700
metres when leaving the camp in SE Weeteeam Bay before turning behind shelter
for the route around the bottom of the island.
The offshore barriers also have
the effect of funnelling flooding tides from nine nm down to about one nm near
the north end of Beauchemin Channel.
This probably explains why the
islands, now called the Anderson Islands, south of Rennison Island and the
other islands strung out toward the south were called the Rip Tide Islands on
the Admiralty charts.
So, the risk to be avoided is
paddling south with northwest wind during a flood tide. In good weather just
starting early in the day to avoid the afternoon northwest wind usually is
sufficient. If you happen to be going south to north, there will be a good push
from flood tides.
14. North Rennison Island
This site sits where it needs to
be to act as a landing place for those coming south and a starting place for
those going north.
In a Bay approximately 1/2 nm east of Oswald
Point there are three beaches that all have some sand for landing. We thought
the more westerly beach was the best for beach camping.
We learned from experience after
the original survey, that at spring tides, most of the camping opportunities on
the beach flood. Jon Dawkins stayed there in 2015 and they cleared room for two
tents in the upland, in the west corner of the more easterly beach.
Water is available in a north-facing cove 500 metres
to the east.
15. North Anderson Island
This site along the north shore
of the larger, most easterly Anderson Island is the long-established camping
site for this area. There is an old cabin accessed near the east end of the
beach and recent information suggests there may be 8 or 9 upland tent sites.
We have had success spin casting for coho from the rocks that bound the west side of the beach. The area near the north end of Aristazabal Island is generally good for coho in the summer and supports the North King Fishing Lodge in Borrowman Bay.
16. Kettle Inlet
The campsite on the south side of
Kettle Inlet near the Northwest tip of Aristazabal Island has a good all tide
beach of sand/gravel. There is beach camping for several tents at spring tides
and many more at lower tide levels. There is a good creek across the inlet to
the north. An issue with this site is that at very low tides the channels
between the string of islands to the northwest dry and this adds an extra
nautical mile to your day if you want to go south.
Midnight Musing
We landed in this perfect,
protected narrow inlet with a good sandy beach and a creek.
During the night, the wind started to funnel
on to the land through the inlet with strong gusts. I guess my tent wasn’t well
anchored and the weather side started to lift and woke me up.
Without thinking and half
asleep, I got out of the tent to put some rocks on the corners. It was a warm
partially moonlit night. I looked around to enjoy the night and when I looked
back, the tent was gone.
Looking inland, there it was,
rolling down the beach with all my night gear inside getting the clothes dryer
treatment. It was an odd feeling standing there wearing nothing but a toque and
a perplexed look as your tent looks for a spot more to its liking.
In good time all but the tent
pegs and my dignity were recovered.
Glenn Lewis
17. Clifford Bay
This site is immediately to the southeast
of Babbage Island at the northern end of the most northerly Normansell Island,
and has a good sand beach down to almost the bottom.
There is upland camping for many
tents and beach camping at other than spring tides. The site is well protected
from any weather arriving from the south.
Water is available in Flux Creek
at the head of Clifford Bay. Water is also available and more easily accessed
at the head of the small cove on Aristazabal Island approximately 0.5 nm to the
southeast of the site.
In the area around Clifford Bay
and on the mud flats to the east of the Normansell Islands you can often see
groups of sandhill cranes.
The channels created by the
Normansell Islands create quite strong currents on both floods and ebbs. It is
possible to stay along the shore of Aristazabal at tides above 2.6 metres at
Beauchemin Channel.
A secondary site on the northeast
corner of the most southerly Normansell Island was suitable when the original
survey was done but covered with kelp when I was there several years later.
Good fishing for ground fish
(ling cod and many types of rockfish) and midwater fish (black rockfish) can be
found off the large rock at the south end of the most southerly Normansell Island.
From this spot to the north end
of the Arriaga islands is the longest exposure to the open ocean along the west
side of Aristazabal.
The most protected route to the
primary site in SE Weeteeam Bay has paddlers turning west into the islands and
islets before the protection of the Arriaga Islands is lost.
The paddle from the Normansell
Islands into Weeteeam Bay would likely be quite difficult with southerly wind
or waves given the exposures and the many rocks and reefs that would add to the
sea state.
18. SE Weeteeam Bay
This site is a former Kayak Bill
site that someone chose to dismantle about 5 or 6 years ago. The site is a fine
sand beach with some upland camping and rooms for many tents. The beach is well
protected from swell but has some exposure to southerly wind.
A secondary site on the north end of the island immediately to the west might be a better choice to ride out stormy weather.
There is a creek behind a small island about 0.75 nm north of the campsite that is most easily accessed at medium to low tides. If you can’t like this place, maybe you should think about different pastime. When in this area I fish off the south point of a large rock approximately 3/4 nm to the SW of the campsite.
The route from this campsite to the east side of Aristazabal Island is all protected by offshore islands except for about 700 metres. Be cautious in this short stretch as the water is shallow and there are several large boomers.
The paddle along the south shore of Aristazabal is interesting with many islets and channels, all well protected from offshore energy, that can be used at higher tides. At lower tides a more southerly course inside the barrier islands but not in the channels closer to the main island is recommended.
19. SE Aristazabal
This site, a little over a mile
south of Lombard Point, is another former Kayak Bill site which he called his
receiving camp. It was a place for him to stop after crossing from Higgins
Passage. Like the site in SE Weeteeam Bay, someone chose to remove the remnants
of Bill’s camp. There is room in the upland for several tents and some beach
camping.
For those choosing to cross from
this area to Price Island one risk is leaving too late in the day and having to
deal with Northwest wind in the early afternoon.
What I do is check the weather
report for McInnes Island light station at 4 am and if there is outflow from
the east (Seaforth Channel) that means that the Northwest wind will likely be
held in check until at least noon. I have been preparing to cross when winds at
the light station were close to 20 knots, none of which made it to the south
end of Aristazabal. The highlands on the east side of Price Island stop the
outflow from coming directly across Laredo Sound.
This is probably not a good
crossing to attempt with southerly weather especially if the tide is on an ebb.
The tidal currents seem to be quite strong on the Aristazabal side and ease as
one moves toward the east.
Leaving the camp on Aristazabal,
aim at Kitasoo Hill and you will end up at Higgins Passage. Cruise ships
transit Laredo Sound, so keep an eye out for them and if there is poor
visibility, you may want to check in with vessel traffic in Prince Rupert.
Laredo Channel and Kitasoo
Bay.
When the weather is nice in the
summer the mountains heat during the morning, and sometime around noon a strong
onshore wind will manifest as a Northwesterly starting up in Principe Channel
and blowing down through Estevan Sound, Laredo Channel and Sound, Kitasoo Bay,
and then north of Kitasoo Hill and along the south shore of Swindle Island,
heading for Seaforth Channel.
My experience is that the wind
can rise from light to 15-20 knots very quickly. Generally, the strongest wind
is in mid-afternoon. Laredo Channel has current speeds of up to 2 knots around
the Ramsbotham Islands, and a flood against this onshore wind can create very difficult
and potentially dangerous sea states. John Kimantas reports, I think from the Sailing
Directions, that Laredo Channel floods for about 8 hours and ebbs for about
4 in each cycle. Something like that is my experience. The solution is quite
easy. Be where you want to stop before lunch.
Coming from Ulric Point on the
north end of Aristazabal Island down Laredo Channel offers two primary
campsites on the Aristazabal side.
On the east side of the channel,
a paddler is hard pressed to find a place to get out of their boat and I know
of no easy place to camp except the IR at Disju and that is not open to the
public.
20. Baker Point
Baker Point is a prominent sand gravel point 2.5 nm south of Ulric Point. There
are large beaches on both sides of the point, In good weather the south side of
the point is more protected and out of the afternoon wind. Both beaches are
exposed to southerly weather. The beach north of the point is a good place to
spin cast for coho. If you choose to camp on the south side, at lower tides the
beach is guarded by large boulders which make launching difficult. There is a
creek.
21. Shotbolt Point
My preferred site is about 3/4 of
a nautical mile north of Shotbolt Point where there is a southeast facing sand
ramp down to the lowest tides. There is ample beach camping on sand above
summer highs.
There is one of the best creeks
on this side of Aristazabal about 200 metres NW from the camp which is easily
accessible along the beach.
This place is out of afternoon
northwest winds and very protected from all forms of southerly wind and a very
good place to ride out some poor weather. If you don’t see a wolf or two
between this place and Baker Point, you are unlucky.
A benefit of this place is that
it puts Wilby Point or Monk Bay within reach before afternoon winds start to
rise. I have paddled down this east side of Aristazabal with a flood current
and except for a few headlands the current is not an impediment near to the
shore.
For those using this route, there
is a north-facing sand cove 3/4 nm northwest of Tildesley Point behind some
reefs that is a good place for a break before crossing to Wilby Point.
22. Wilby Point
For me, wilderness camping does
not get much better than sitting at Wilby Point, watching the sun come over
Klemtu Mountain with a cup of coffee and a good book; and, from time to time, a
morning visit from a local wolf doing the rounds of the beaches.
There are two sand ramps coming
into Kitasoo Bay.
The first is about 175 metres
from the point, faces a little to the north, and has coarser gravel; it holds a
fantastic view but beware of setting up camp at highest tides as you may have
to move your tent up from the lapping waters if you don’t.
The second is a little over 500
metres from the point, faces more toward the south and has finer gravel. I
prefer this site as it has much more room for camping both on the beach and in
the upland and it is out of the afternoon wind.
Spin casting for coho is often
good at the more northerly beach and trolling along the shore or using a buzz
bomb from the point towards the land is often successful.
There is a long beach that
stretches to the south which has some weak streams that drain the upland.
In poor weather with wind from
the south, the Wilby Point area is completely exposed as the weather comes
unimpeded north of Kitasoo Hill. During this situation, a retreat to Milne
Island, which is protected from southerly weather, is a better choice.
For those paddling from Klemtu
and heading north up Laredo Channel, Monk Bay, a lunch site in the Wild Coast
guide, now has some upland and beach camping. This site saves about two hours
of paddling before starting north in Laredo Channel and may help avoid
afternoon wind.
Higgins Passage
Until a few years ago the big,
probably former village, site at the west end of Higgins Passage was among the
most used in the area and camping was allowed. Then the Kitasoo decided that
they no longer want people to camp there. That decision came after Jon Dawkins
reported stopping there and the place had been left a mess. It is indeed
regrettable, although understandable, that this place is no longer available
for camping as it is a strategic site for crossing to and from Aristazabal or
paddling from Pidwell Reefs to the east to Wilby Point further to the north.
For those coming from Wilby Point
and going to Pidwell Reefs, the easiest transit is in the channel south of
Lohbrunner Island which requires about 7 feet of water. A risk is that if you
leave the paddle from Higgins until too late in the day, the northwest wind,
which blows through the lowlands north of Kitasoo Hill, will cause unrest along
the south shore of Swindle Island.
For those going south along Price Island, the protection of the islets and reefs will provide quite good cover.
23. Larkin Point
For those coming from Pidwell Reefs and heading for Wilby Point, a risk is that by the time you get to Larkin Point, about 2.5 nm south of Wilby Point, there might be a strong northwesterly afternoon wind in your face.
In this situation there is no established campsite, but there is a small islet in the midst of several reefs and shallows 700 metres SE of Larkin Point. I thought the east side of this islet would survive high tides.
This place is included as a
possible campsite, for no other reason than I have never been able to find
anything better in this area.
24. West side of Price Island
Both the west and east side of
Price Island are very rugged and offer very few opportunities to land and fewer
places to camp.
On the west side, shallow ground
extends well offshore with the result that there are about 400 islands or
islets and uncountable rocks and reefs scattered between Day Point in the south
and Higgins Passage. A positive aspect of this situation is that there is a
route that stays close to the main island shore that, except for a couple of
short sections, is very well protected from offshore wave energy. The chart for
this area is an old survey at a scale that gives little help with the convoluted
shore. What works is satellite photos. Originally, I used Google satellite
images and drew longitudes and latitudes to be used with a GPS. In recent years
the resolution of satellite images has improved significantly, and it is now
fairly easy to plan a route that stays
in the lee of the islets and reefs. As of November 2025, the Google images show
the situation at high tide and Bing images show it at low tide. The low tide
images make it much easier to follow the protected route as they show more channels
and reefs.
Another effect of the shallow water is that fishing for groundfish is poor.
On the west side of Price Island
there is one primary campsite. Rudolph Bay is noted as a secondary site and
camping may be possible, particularly during neap tides inside the Bay. Another
site, a little north of where a paddler turns east into Day Passage, has
potential for some tents and is a protected place to take a break.
25. South side of Price Island
Toward the bottom of Price Island
where the shore turns toward the southeast, the protection of the islands that
forms a kind of inside passage is lost for approximately 0.75 nm. My experience
is that during good weather with wind and wave energy coming from the west or
northwest, the shallow water and exposure to any offshore swell means that a
paddler should expect some chop and disorganized seas. I have never found this
place to be a significant risk in this situation.
The situation is different with
poor weather and southerly winds. With wind waves and swell coming from the
south and being redirected by the rocks and reefs, the 3/4 mile of exposure may
well be more than some paddlers find comfortable.
Coming from the north, a stop at
the secondary site in this area is a choice. Coming from the east side of Price
through Day Passage on days with south wind and sea state, perhaps waiting for
a better day before leaving the east Price site is wisest. Once you are at the
west end of Day Passage there is no good bail out choice and if you turn north
in rough conditions, the situation is likely to get worse before you find
shelter 0.75 nm to the north.
Day Passage is well protected
from almost all offshore energy. The first time that I paddled around the south
end of Price Island the only information available was a cruising guide which
talked about the good beach combing in the area. I foolishly thought this must
mean there were beaches. I have been to this place six times looking for a
potential campsite and even using satellite images I cannot find a place that
is worthy of the name that can be accessed through a full tide cycle.
26. East side of Price Island
This area has less shallow water
near the shore and, with only a couple of exceptions its beaches are steep and
coarse rock.
When the guides were first published,
we had used south arm of Langford Cove for camping. It is okay on the beach at
lower tides, but it floods at springs. On one trip, I cleared room for one tent
in the upland about mid-beach. The main factor recommending this place was that
we were unaware of any other choice.
Since then, a small cove with a
sand ramp facing southeast has been located one mile north of Langford Cove.
This is, by far, the best (and really only) choice for camping on this side of
Price Island. The upper part of this beach has a fairly heavy load of driftwood
and logs which only allow beach camping at tides below 15 feet at Day Point. In
southerly weather, waves would reduce that option. Fortunately, someone cleared
some tent sites in the upland which can easily accommodate 3 tents and probably
5 or 6 with a squeeze.
There is a good creek.
Between about 10-12 feet of water
there are some boulders in the sand which form a partial barrier but the last
time I was there it was quite easy to clear a path through for my kayak cart.
Above and below the rocks is a good sand beach.
Crossing from Price Island toward
the east will mean dealing with quite strong currents flowing north/south. I
have been told that on an ebb, where this current meets incoming swell, toward
the south end of Price Island, a heavy turbulence can develop. For paddlers
crossing toward Dallas Island, about mid-channel there will likely be some chop
during ebb currents.
West coast of Calvert Island
The west side of Calvert Island
is a very different experience from the outer coast covered by this guide to
the north.
For the most part, while the landform
is fairly flat, the sea, other than near the shore is not very shallow. There
are no lines of islands and reefs to protect the beaches and any protection from
Haida Gwaii has long since disappeared. The result is predictable and that is a
series of sand beaches created by the pounding of swell coming from offshore.
When we did the original survey
in 2013 we had calm weather with swell of only 0.7 metres at the West Sea Otter
Buoy when checking the many small beaches in the northern half of the island.
Most of the time, the swell would be higher, and the result would be more surf
on many of those small beaches.
In this version of the guide, the
intent is to identify those places where landing and camping is possible on
beaches that will have little if any surf when there are 2 or 3 metres of swell
offshore at the buoys.
Tidal currents are not strong
along most of that part of outer Calvert that lies north to south except at the
north and, sometimes, at the south ends.
North of Calvert Island is Hakai
Pass. A large amount of water moves to and from Fitzhugh Sound at speeds of up
to about 4 knots. On an ebb, when that water meets incoming swell, the
predictable result is very rough water and possibly, standing waves. I have
read about standing waves 20 feet high at times of large swell.
In the summer, that sort of thing
is not very likely but even with moderate swell, a good deal of unrest is
probably around the northwest corner of Calvert on ebbs. Some of the current
from Hakai turn south at the Surf Islands so, the difficult sea state caused by
swell against current may continue for some distance south along the coast.
The east side Calvert Island has
some mountains and highlands. These seem to contribute to the afternoon
northwesterly phenomena that occurs along our coast in good weather.
More than in most areas, my
advice is to start paddling early in the morning and get to your beach before
the afternoon winds start. The entire coast of Calvert Island is fully exposed
to poor weather in the form of Southerly winds except for Grief Bay in the
south. Most likely, if a low pressure comes ashore, you will need to wait until
it passes and the sea quiets down.
Once you turn toward the east
after Blackney Island, paddlers are still not out of the woods from northwest
winds and local currents. It is only about 8 nm from Blackney Island but
anywhere near to the shore has many islands and islets and not a lot of deep
water. Wind from the northwest comes unimpeded over the low ground in the
southwest portion of Calvert and Rivers Inlet, and adds to the problem by
drawing that wind to the east later in the day.
Another factor to consider is the
huge amount of water that comes out of Rivers Inlet and Fitzhugh Sound on its
way out to sea. The result of all this, is that if you are paddling from
Blackney Island in the afternoon, in good weather on an ebb tide, the sea state
is likely to be quite rough with a lot of echo if you are near to the shore.
There is an inside route closer
to the shore once past Chic Chic Bay which might be quieter, or you can move
offshore a bit and avoid the echo. The better solution is to leave Blackney
early in the morning on a flood tide and it will only take about three hours to
be safely inside Grief Bay.
In the case of poor weather with
southerly winds, there is little cover along the southern shore of Calvert
Island.
In the 2013 survey, we visited
almost all of the coves and bays along the west side of Calvert and found most
of them suitable for camping and with almost no wind or swell we were able to
land without difficulty, except at a couple of large surf beaches. But the
conditions that we had are not all that common and higher swell and some wind
should be expected.
In this guide, some mention remains of the many places where it is possible to land and camp, but the focus is on places where we think that landing with little or no surf and camping is possible in more challenging conditions. This reduces about 10 or 12 sites down to 5 primary sites that are spread out appropriately evenly and allow for a couple of bail out spots if the sea state turns worse.
Paddling from North to South, we suggest either starting at North Beach, or a
west facing beach approximately 1.5 nm south of the Surf Islands.
27. North Beach
My experience is that the west
end of North Beach has a couple of places to land in little or no surf in most
conditions.
There is, or was, a trail through
to the beach to the south which gives access to the Hakai Institute.
28. Island 55
The recommended place to camp is
a west facing arc beach behind an island marked ‘55’ on the chart. The north
corner of this beach is very protected by a point to the west, the various
islands and reefs further west and a lot of kelp near the north entrance to the
bay.
There is a creek which should
have water except in very dry years.
29. Pocket
Another choice is a small pocket
about 300 metres south of the south end of the recommended beach in a pocket a
little to the west of a larger open south facing beach. This pocket is without
much surf or swell at lower tides. At higher tides swell can get in from the
west and cause a difficult landing.
There are well used headland
trails that join most of these beaches together.
30. Dublin Point
The next primary site is a little
less than 0.75 nm north of Dublin Point.
The west facing bay has a narrow
entrance that is shallow with a lot of kelp. This protection and the
dissipation of energy in the bay as it widens has the effect of reducing most
of the offshore energy.
We thought that the beaches in the
northern part of the bay were best for camping and in most years there would be
water from a small creek.
This place is listed because the next good place to land is behind Blackney Island, about 7 nm to the south. Stop here if you don’t want to risk getting caught out in a rising wind.
South of Dublin Point is Three Mile
Beach. It is about 1.5 nm long and not obviously three miles from anywhere.
About mid-beach is Bolivar Island. We planned to land on this beach and timed
our arrival to be in the morning when Bolivar Island was tomboloed to the
shore.
On our day, there was very low swell
from the northwest, and almost no wind. Our hope that one side of Bolivar would
be without surf did not pan out.
If you choose to land on this
beach, and the sea state increases, you may be there for a while before being
able to launch.
Where else can you
experience larceny, mayhem, time travel and have a conversation with a
Leviathan all in a 15 hour period?
I had a vacuum sealed pouch
of the very best beef jerky I have ever tasted when I set up camp on Calvert
Island. All of the rest of my food had been hung but I kept the jerky close in
case I was tempted during the night. It went into my net beach bag and was
stuffed beneath my drysuit in the vestibule of the tent.
Around midnight I awoke to
a rustling sound coming from the vestibule. Donning my headlamp, I dug beneath
my drysuit and was horrified to find 8-10 mice scurrying about in the bag.
Physically expelling the mice I found holes in the bag and the special jerky
defiled and partly eaten.
At dawn I awoke to a pair
of ravens glocking and whistling at each other. They sounded very close.
Opening my tent door and looking up I was presented with a fat raven, head
cocked, looking down at me. I was pleased to see that he was about 5 feet away
on a log that I had hung my PFD from. When preparing to launch I was double
checking my gear and found the rubber torn and missing from the antennae of my
VHF radio. The raven, performing an act of wanton destruction, had eaten it. I
could receive but could no longer transmit.
Later that morning I
traveled back in time by landing at an archeological site where researchers had
found footprints made by a family dating back 13,200 years. Living on a
geological hinge during the ice age they had warmed themselves around a fire.
What an odd feeling to think of their lives and their world.
Finally, around 2:30PM I
was paddling along a steep rocky shoreline. Calm sea state allowed me to travel
just a boat length from the rocky cliff. Suddenly a humpback floated to the
surface beside me. His/her left pectoral fin was under the boat trapping me
next to the rocks. I didn't feel that I could move and wasn’t sure what would
happen next. He/she was breathing softly and we were eye-to-eye, just looking
at each other. Shocked, but no longer afraid, we sat like that for a while.
Eventually I calmed down, took out a meal bar and had a snack. We sat together
for about 10 minutes. As I ate I told him/her about my day. How I would be
eating beef jerky if not for those damn mice and how I was concerned about not
being able to notify Comox Traffic when it was time to cross Queen Charlotte
Strait for Port Hardy. That whale was a good listener. It just looked at me and
relaxed. After a bit I remembered that I still needed to find some water and a
place to camp and told it that I had to get going but I was still pinned next
to the rocks. The whale didn't respond until I tapped on the sides of my boat.
At that point the whale gently moved off a bit and dove, its tail bidding me
adieu.
Where else does all of that
happen in a 15 hour period? Only on the BC Coast.
Jon Dawkins
31. Blackney Island
This is an expansive and
beautiful spot. Winter storms blowing in from the south ensure much room above
all tides.
Landing at the north end of the
sand portion of the beach will generally be without any surf. Camping in that
corner of the beach is protected from afternoon north westerlies. As one moves
further south along the beach it becomes more exposed to the open water.
There is a good creek about 45
minutes walking to the north, and a possible creek about 10 minutes to the
south.
32. Grief Bay
This large sand beach, almost
entirely protected by the Sorrow Islands, is a likely stop for everyone, either
coming from or going to Cranstown Point.
I have found that camping is good
about 100 metres from the east end of the beach.
There is a good creek and there were
the remains of a Kayak Bill camp near to the preferred camping spot.
At times, Grief Bay has been
noted for bugs, but that is not our experience. A precaution would be to ensure
a supply of bug spray and maybe a bug net.
Our experience is that fishing is
good all along the west and south sides of Calvert. You are likely to see some
sports fishers along the south shore coming from the lodges in Rivers Inlet.
From Grief Bay to Cranstown Point
is about 6 nm. An early morning crossing is likely to be calmer.
At some point all of the water
and energy that emerges from Rivers Inlet and Fitzhugh Sound on an ebb will
meet incoming energy from the open ocean. With higher swell values offshore, it
may be prudent to make this crossing at slack or on a flood. I am not sure when
the currents in this area change, but my estimate would be about an hour after
the tide change.
Cape Caution – Cranstown Point to Bremner Point
The short stretch of water, less
than 20 nm, beginning at Cranstown Point and ending at Slingsby Channel tends
to cause some concern among those in transit. The only place I have been on the
coast that requires more care is the west side of Moresby Island.
John Kimantas, after a difficult
day getting around Neck Ness, suggested just getting through as quickly as
possible, in part by staying offshore. My experience is that while there are
several challenges, one after the other, with careful planning, a prudent
approach and more than the usual amount of patience, the area is manageable for
paddlers without the need to endure sea states beyond their comfort zone.
For those who set a paddling
schedule and are determined to stay with it, additional hard paddling skills
are recommended, particularly skills with disorganized sea states.
The most obvious feature of this
area is that it is fully exposed to the open ocean. This means ocean swell that
will always be present at some level. The West Sea Otter Buoy about 30 nm west
of Cape Caution will give you hourly readings of swell height.
Remember that just because winds
have been light along the coast that does not mean that swell, which may
originate from weather systems well west of our offshore waters, cannot be
disproportionately high.
Another factor is shallow water. The whole of
the section covered by this part of the guide has shallow water at least a mile
off shore and often more. This, as one would expect, means a lot of reefs that
will affect paddling conditions and water moving over shallow water can create
turbulence at the surface.
A third factor is the tidal
currents running over this shallow water. During ebb tidal currents, huge
amounts of water pour southwest out of Rivers Inlet and Fitzhugh Sound before
being buttressed by strong outflow currents from Smith Sound. From the east,
are equally impressive amounts of water coming out of Queen Charlotte Strait.
These currents meet somewhere
around Neck Ness, and the result is predictable. Strong currents colliding over
shallow water with offshore swell adding to the energy means rough water. Add
some wind and the situation can be troublesome.
Another separate feature
affecting paddlers is Smith Sound; this long inlet backs on to the coast range
and, in good weather, afternoon inflows have been in the 15-20 knot range when
I have been there. Crossing Smith Sound at such times on an ebb will be
exciting, at a minimum.
I have spent a lot of time
thinking about the transit of this area over five passages trying to reconcile
my experience on the water with what might be happening to affect sea state. I
have concluded that no matter what precautions are taken, some turbulence will
be encountered around Neck Ness but not so much that paddlers of average
ability cannot manage the sea state and the time of exposure can be pared down
to half an hour or so.
As one might expect with exposure
to the open ocean in an area where the terrain is quite flat, there are many
sand beaches that call out to the paddler. This guide lists those that under
sea conditions suitable for the average paddler, a landing can be managed
without surf. This guide lists the sites I have used both for being nice places
and for their place in a quiet overall transit.
33. Cranstown Point
The quietest beach to land on
faces to the southwest. The potential for surf, given the shape of the cove is
negated by large amounts of kelp offshore from the beach. This beach is connected
to the large beach to the north by trails.
I have stayed there during large
spring tides and found that the south beach retained a couple of spots for
camping on sand while they pretty much disappeared on the north side. There is
room in the upland for some tents just past the shelter accessed from the south
beach. There is a creek at the east end of the north-facing beach.
Cranstown Point to Extended Point
is shallow with many rocks and reefs close to shore, but generally without
strong currents. A route 300-400 metres from the shore avoids most of the
boomers.
34. Extended Point
This site has three small pocket
beaches in a southwest-facing cove behind Tie Island. When I have been there a
lot of drift logs made landing difficult. The most easterly of these pockets
has the remains of a Kayak Bill camp.
Extended Point is where a
decision needs to be made about crossing Smith Sound.
For those who have started at
Calvert Island or Fury Island, it is likely that in good weather the inflow
winds in Smith Sound are either occurring or about to occur.
There are some choices if you
choose not to cross because of the inflow wind or the risk of that event. Stay
at Extended Point if landing is possible. Cross over to Brown Island where
there is a beach on the east side out of the westerly wind. Try to make it to
Table Island where camping is possible. Go with the wind into Dsulish Bay,
about 3.5 nm which will not take long with a flood current.
35. Dsulish Bay
This site has camping on a large
sand beach behind Dsulish Island. There may be some surge on landing, but surf
is unlikely.
There is ample beach camping
above summer tides and a creek.
On the two occasions I have been
there, the sea water at the west end of the beach was quite warm for swimming.
36. Brown Island
This site was not known to me until a meeting in 2025 with some paddlers who had stopped there for the night. Camping is on sand with room for 2-4 tents above spring tides. Landing is in the southeast corner. At lower tides, landing or launching will be slippery.
This place might save a detour if
crossing from north to south when Smith Sounds is too rough.
37. Table Island
In the channel between Ann Island
and Table Island is a north-facing beach that gives access to upland camping.
Ann Island is an Indian Reserve.
38. Red Sand Beach
This site is a very popular beach on the south side of Smith Sound which has ample beach camping and several upland sites. There is a trail at the east end of the beach that accesses a strong flowing creek. Most of the time, the east end of the beach will have more energy so landing in the west corner is likely to be without surf.
If you are leaving Red Sand in the morning in
good weather, an outflow breeze will likely help you along to Milthrop Point.
From Milthrop Point it is about 1 nm to the protected beach in Hoop Bay where
landing and camping are both possible and pleasant.
39. Hoop Bay
The sand beach in Hoop Bay is about 100 metres long and is very well protected from surf by rocks and kelp at the entrance; the shape of the entrance to Hoop Bay directs most of the offshore energy on the large beach a little to the south. There is a creek and ample beach camping.
Whether coming from the south or the north, the area around Neck Ness will likely involve choppy water. Our solution is to make this passage on a flood tide, waiting perhaps an hour or so after the ebb ends, and use the protection of reefs in Hoop Bay to shorten the exposure. We follow a line SSW out of Hoop Bay staying inside of the boomers that lie on a line between Hoop Reefs and the islet to the north of Neck Ness, cutting out to sea a little before that islet. This year, 2025, in good weather the chop around Neck Ness was not demanding.
After Neck Ness the first place to easily come ashore is about 0.5 nm further at Indian Cove. Entering Indian Cove is most easily done staying south of the islet that guards the entrance. The beach is a sand arc about 400 metres in length.
